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Diva
updated 12 Dec 2011, 06:58
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Mon, Dec 12, 2011
New Straits Times
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Material charm

FOR those who are not well versed with Muslim fashion, the image that usually appears in the mind when it is mentioned is usually that of the abaya, the long black dress covering the entire body, and the purdah, the veil that covers half the face.

Luckily we have the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) to give the world a more accurate picture. It may be that the West is largely exposed to Muslims wearing stereotypical garb but here in the East, the many varieties and innovative Muslim designs reflecting its diversity are well known.

This mass market of Muslim wear generates over US$96 billion a year, and undeniably it has great potential.

IFF's fourth edition was in Jakarta, Indonesia, on June 29-30.

The festival featured over 21 designers, both Muslims and non-Muslims.

Carrying the theme Cita Nusantara, IFF this time around aimed to embrace the fabrics originating from both Malaysia and Indonesia including the batik, tenun, ikat and songket. Founded and chaired by Datuk Raja Rezza Shah (who acted in the famous Ali Setan movie during his younger days), IFF has matured over the years.

"The event in Jakarta was almost a no-show because we wanted to give our full concentration to organising IFF on other international fronts," Raja Rezza said.

"Our show in New York was such a big success and it was hosted by actor/singer Jamie Fox. Over 80 per cent of the attendees were non-Muslims."

It was reported that Hollywood actor Robert De Niro was also present at the show and stayed till the end, even though he is known to stay for no more than one hour at most official events he attends.

Raja Rezza was surprised to find out that the people in New York thought Muslim wear was only available in black. "To them, Muslim wear is like a punishment for women.

It was really a shock to know that they still think like that. "But IFF has opened up their eyes about the wonders of Muslim wear."

He adds: "Muslims face a lot of difficulties in some countries. IFF is trying to do what it can to ease this tension. This is why we named our concept 'Discover the Beauty of Modesty'."

Over the two days of IFF in Jakarta, I noticed how Raja Rezza too has learnt from experience since the day he first introduced the fashion festival in 2006.

Surrounded by the difficult Jakarta media during the press conference, Raja Rezza nevertheless was able to handle their direct questions with composure.

Not only were there improvements in management of the two-day event but the apparel paraded were also well-designed. The first day of the IFF started at 8.30pm, Jakarta time.

Many VIPs in Indonesia descended upon Hotel Dharmawangsa, which is rated five-star. All dressed to the nines, I suddenly felt invisible in my attire.

The runway in the ballroom was close to the guests' tables providing an unimpeded view of the main area.

The guests were served Indonesian cuisine for dinner.

Kuching-born designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi kicked off the show with her collection themed "Borneo Romance". Tom stayed with her Sarawakian roots and her Resortwear clothes were inspired by the Orang Ulu motif.

Tom also showcased apparel for men. Italian designer Milo, who is based in Bali, came out right after that with designs made of Batik Alambra-Kalimantan, Batik Wajik-Modern Geometry and Batik Cactus-Modern Abstract.

The theme for his collection was Milo Internazionale. According to him, Muslim wear is a matter of adaptation. He used to design revealing clothes when he was in the Riviera, Italy, but these clothes could still be turned into Muslim wear with a few adjustments to comply with Islamic rules. There was a short break and our own Aizat came out to perform.

He did a good job but the Jakarta media (specifically the photographers) seemed to be having trouble with it. They were making fun of Aizat's chorus and laughed when he was singing.

Not to mention yelling throughout the formal show. These photographers showed no respect for the event or the guests which included the Raja Muda Perlis, Tuanku Syed Faizuddin Putra and Raja Puan Muda Perlis, Tuanku Lailatul Shahreen Akashah Khalil.

Malaysia's Melinda Looi later stunned everyone with her abaya collection. Most of her abayas were black but they were infused with Asian influences, as seen in the embellishments and embroidery.

This was by far Looi's best Muslim creations.

Samuel Wattimena from Indonesia took centre stage after that with the theme "Passion of Diversity". The collection was of woven material in batik and embroidery, inspired by Indonesian heritage.

Most of Samuel's outfits that evening were for men.

Singer Rossa then sang a few songs dressed in bright pink Muslim styled wear, complete with a hood.

The petite bubbly singer sang very well.

The most awaited parade was from Indonesia's Ghea Panggabean the last for that evening. The Dutch-Indonesian designer is known to weave a story into every show she is in by utilising her family heritage.

The designer, who has been in the industry for 30 years, also incorporated Indonesian motifs, under the theme "Spirit of Indonesia".

Her workmanship and deep understanding of Muslim wear was apparent in her designs. Ghea thinks that Muslim wear for women should be simple and elegant, not stuffy and unpleasant.

"As long as it follows the rules of Islam, there shouldn't be any problems," said Ghea.

Before the end of the night, the organising committee presented a donation for the Padang Earthquake victims of more than US$10,000.

A VIP at the event donated another US$5,000 with the request that Rossa deliver one more song.

And Rossa did just that.

The sky was quite gloomy on the second day of the IFF.

Sixteen designers from Malaysia and Indonesia joined forces to deliver a great spectacle from 11.30am.

From funky, modern, elegant and couture, the designs had one feature in common - decency.

The designers from Indonesia were Merry Pramono, Iva Latifah, Erni Kokasih, Hannie Hananto, Alphiana Chandrayani, Anne Rufaidah, Jeny Tjahyawati, Savitri, Ida Royani, Zainal Songket, Nuniek Mawardi and Ian Adrian.

Malaysia was represented by Noraini from Jarumas, Khadani, Kraftangan Malaysia and Mona Din from Hajaba. Most of the designs received huge applause from the guests.

Indonesia's nasyid singers Yolanda Yusof and Zero Nasyid later entertained guests. The fabrics throughout the two-day event ranged from chiffon and silk to cotton and crepe.

Parang Batik, Batik Cirebon, Tenun Pahang, Tenun Maluku, Songket Terengganu, Songket Palembang, Tuban's Gedog Woven Cloth, tie-dye Batik and Ulap Doyo were among the fabrics used by the designers on the second day of the IFF.

On the last night in Jakarta, Ghea Panggabean invited the Malaysian media to her home for dinner. We were all astounded by Ghea's huge home, which is believed to be located next to Indonesian politician Megawati Sukarno Putri's house. Back to the IFF.

The way I see it, the show in Jakarta this year is an educational one on the Nusantara fabrics in this region. IFF Jakarta was a big success and the festival is heading for Monte Carlo on Aug 9.

It had earlier been in Abu Dhabi.

Come November, IFF will come be coming back home to Kuala Lumpur to dazzle with its exciting Muslim wear.

 

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