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updated 2 Jan 2012, 14:42
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Mon, Jan 02, 2012
Urban, The Straits Times
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Dior's fine jewellery
by Noelle Loh

Stepping into the office of Dior Joaillerie's artistic director Victoire De Castellane is like entering a child's dream bedroom.

Its walls are painted a soothing baby blue. Scattered throughout on shelves and table tops are snow globes featuring Disney characters such as Snow White and Tinkerbell, while one wall is plastered with pretty, plastic butterfly cut-outs.

It is a glimpse of the fun and fantastic world of Dior Joaillerie - or Dior Fine Jewellery - where gems come in candy colours and other worldly shapes and proportions.

Signature designs include the Incroyables et Merveilleuses (French for 'incredible and marvellous') collection, which boasts over-the-top, 60- to 80-carat stones such as amethyst and citrine set into rings and earrings, and the Mimioui range that includes what is believed to be the world's slimmest ring - a 0.04-carat diamond on a thin 0.4g gold chain.

Her latest high-jewellery collection, Idylle aux Paradis, has eight unique bracelets featuring carved opal animals such as starfish and seahorses. These can be removed to become brooches or pendants.

It was released in Europe in mid-March and costs between 220,000 euros (S$449,000) and more than 560,000 euros each.

One of the designs will be on display as part of a travelling showcase at the upcoming Ion Orchard Dior boutique, which is set to open in early September. It will not be for sale.

Roped in after 15 years with Chanel Fine Jewellery in 1998 to helm Dior's then newly launched fine jewellery department, De Castellane tells Urban: 'I love the universe of fairy tales and Hollywood movies.

'They are feminine stories, children's stories that have a certain ambiguity and aren't completely innocent.'

Declining to reveal her age but looking to be in her 40s, the fashion aristocrat - she is the granddaughter of Sylvia Hennessy of the family famed for its cognac - counts Snow White among her favourite children's stories.

Indeed, women everywhere have been charmed by Dior Joaillerie's luxurious yet whimsical designs.

In Singapore, the upcoming Ion Orchard Dior duplex will join the Takashimaya Shopping Centre branch in carrying a range of the fine jewellery. Prices range from $500 for a mini Gourmette de Dior gold ring to $167,000 for a pair of Cygne Blanc diamond earrings.

The recession has not - and will not - change her perfectionist approach to design, says De Castellane.

Unlike many who design based on the gem stones they have bought, she sources for the rocks only after she has drawn up the final design. It is a process where she, well, leaves no stone unturned to get her prized gems, which explains why her one-off pieces can take up to two years to complete.

'Instead of buying 20 rings, (customers) would buy two that they really like and are of good quality because quality is what stays. Its value is eternal,' she says.

'For me, it is also important to continue creating to give energy and happiness to people. Even if they can't buy it, maybe they can feel happy and alive just by looking at the jewellery.'

The mother of three - she is married to French art director Thomas Lenthal - shares more about her sparkling wonderland.

Most fine jewellery houses do not use as extensive a range of coloured, semi-precious gems as you do. What is your fascination with these bright rocks?

When I first started here in 1998, most fine jewellery houses were going the classic route. For them, there were only four stones: diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. But I didn't want to forget all the other stones that give off such beautiful colours. I need all these stones to tell my story.

Incidentally, all these semi-precious stones are now more rare and difficult to find.

Which is your all-time favourite stone?

My personal favourite is the opal because you can find every colour in it - blue, green, pink, yellow, orange. It has different colours, depending on where it comes from.

For example, Australian opal is more of the blue-green variety while those from Ethiopia come in white, brown or pink. I think it's an amazing stone.

I also love using huge amethysts and tourmalines. Ultimately, every stone has its own look and, when mixed with others, the results can be crazy.

Describe the woman you design for.

I design for different types of women. After all, I have all sorts of designs in varying sizes. They can be fashionable with a sense of humour, which I think is important when it comes to carrying off my designs, or the classic sort who are looking for a change, something more creative. They share one thing in common though - they all love jewellery.

What are your top-selling designs?

Rings are always popular because you can see them as you wear them unlike, for example, earrings. Our most famous designs are the Diorette and Mimioui rings, which are particularly popular among younger customers. There is also our Incroyables range that features huge stones as well as our unique pieces.

What are your thoughts about the increasing popularity of costume jewellery?

With costume jewellery, the metal can break or tarnish. It is something that you don't intend to keep for life. For me, real jewellery is something that you can give to your daughter, who can in turn give it to her daughter. When you have your grandmother's ring, she is there on your hand and becomes eternal. That's what I love most about fine jewellery.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.

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