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updated 28 Mar 2014, 16:04
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Shanghai Tang goes chic with Oriental lines
by S.S. Yoga

FASHION gets its inspiration from many sources. Shanghai Tang prides itself as modern luxury lifestyle brand from China that infuses modern chic with Chinese-inspired elements.

The current fall/winter 2009 collection looks at the culture of the displaced and adventurous Chinese who left the mainland to venture to countries in South-East Asia.

Closer to home in Malaysia and Singapore during the late 18th century and even earlier in Malacca, a fusion of Chinese and Malay culture spawned the rich tradition and refined aesthetics of the Peranakan Chinese.

The collection aptly called Kaleidoscope uses the elaborate embroideries of that culture and intricate prints which give more than a nod to traditional porcelain mosaics (that look very Art Deco) and indigenous flora. If you will, call it fashion-forward retro.

The journey into all things Chinese takes Shanghai Tang to the Pearl of the Orient this time around.

The setting for the ad campaign was the historic Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion in Penang, or as the locals call it, La Maison Bleu. Built by one of the region’s most prolific entrepreneurs and diplomats in the late 19th century, the building bears his name.

It is considered one of the prime examples of Straits Settlements architecture. The historic site has 38 rooms, five courtyards, seven staircases and a plethora of intricate carvings, mosaics and stained-glass windows, and is the perfect locale to complement the new collection.

The campaign was shot by rising Spanish photographer Richard Ramos. And the tradition of Shanghai Tang discovering the next potential Chinese supermodel continues.

Chinese supermodels Du Juan and Liu Wen both did their first international campaigns for the brand.

Hoping to follow in their footsteps is Shandong-born Sun Fei Fei. She’s an arresting figure once one gets past her “pouty” pose and should have a promising career ahead.

For the women’s collection, Peranakan goes the way of nature, cubism and Art Deco, not forgetting elements of its cultural roots.

Expect to see bamboo motifs – symbol of longevity, courage and modesty (bamboo is hollow, and in Chinese this word sounds like modesty).

Blouses and qipao carry “underwater garden” prints featuring fish, regarded a symbol of abundance. Hand-drawn flowers inspired by floral batik motifs are seen on a stunner of a trench coat.

There is also the use of the “lip flower” print inspired by the same found on Peranakan porcelain. Geometric patterns rule some outfits.

The Bauhaus print is inspired by the cubism movement and features shou, the symbol of longevity, subtly hidden throughout the print.

It is also used on a tone on tone Jacquard and a qipao made up of sequins. These stand out in the collection. Finally, there’s the mix of different batik and Peranakan jewellery motifs.

For the men, the label looks to the same cultural roots, with a heavy nod to the military. Beautiful natural fibres such as wool are used in sleek military coats, accessorised with scarves of silk and cashmere.

And what’s Shanghai Tang without traditional coats with distinctive detailing now found in bold colours? Add to the mix, Mandarin-collar shirts and cashmere knits.

There are some quirky casual like polo Ts with a print of a Genghis Khan look-alike on a horse playing polo.

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