ZOE TESTING: LOCAL designer Khoon Hooi veers from his familiar deconstructed look and opts for a more streamlined silhouette in his Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, called Scent.

The pieces which stand out play with dual tones of nude and black. Sequins set in graphic patterns and gold brocade on jackets add a striking effect to the collection.

The graphic effect in sequins was something different and the gold brocade jackets had a striking effect.

Called “Scent”, this collection featured modern silhouettes and a more structured look.

As scents can be mixed to give an element of surprise (think of fragrances with layered base and top notes), he applied the same rationale in his collection, by having a balance between light and dark colours and using different fabric texures.

There are varied references, from delicate romance to medieval inspiration, as the lines are divided into Renaissance, Belle Epoque and Joan of Arc. He also added touches from his the Timeless Tailoring and Holiday collections, so the result ranged from the modern to romantic, feminine to gothic and simplicity to embossed pieces.

Think of a dress with layered fringes, or just edging on the hem of a dress, a striking red short dress with an off-centre twist, tiny stud buttons in a row and the metal detailing on belts.

“I wanted to make it more sumptuous, I kept it flowing, more structured, and there was a more textured look. I feel that I’m more mature now so I wanted to do something different for this collection.

“But even when adding something new, I also kept the ‘look’ for my customers, so there’s a balance,” says Khoon Hooi.

The focal point of the collection can be found in the signature fabrication details, especially the use of strategically placed zips. Previously, the designer used tiny hooks as an interesting element in his clothes.

All in all, while the collection featured several new looks to attract a wider audience to the brand, there were still several designs that stayed true to his signature look in drapes and chiffon to please the whimiscal Khoon Hooi girl.