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updated 1 May 2013, 09:44
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Mon, Apr 15, 2013
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China's got style
by Rohaizatul Azhar

She does not wear Chanel, Dior or any recognisable luxury brands. Yet, the sartorial choices of China's First Lady, Ms Peng Liyuan, have sparked much buzz.

Last month, the 50-year-old became a surprise style sensation when she accompanied her husband, Chinese President Xi Jinping, 59, on an official state visit to Russia and South Africa. Her penchant for eschewing international luxury labels for Chinese labels has won the approval of her country's fashion bloggers as well as style commentators around the world.

Ms Hong Huang, publisher of the fashion magazine iLook and one of China's popular microbloggers, told London's The Telegraph last month: "First Ladies are ambassadors of the culture, design and soft power of a country."

By choosing to wear Chinese labels, she added, Ms Peng has taken up the role of spokesman for Chinese design.

When Ms Peng disembarked from her private plane in Moscow last month, she wore an elegant black double-breasted coat and carried a handsome black handbag, both by top Chinese fashion label Exception de Mixmind.

Minutes after pictures of MsPeng surfaced on the Internet, throngs of Chinese women logged on to the brand's website, looking to buy the bag she was carrying. The site crashed two hours later due to overwhelming traffic.

The fashion frenzy MsPeng has inspired has been compared to the Duchess of Cambridge's "Kate Effect", where anything Kate Middleton is seen wearing sells out in a matter of hours.

FINALLY, A BEAUTY

Unlike China's previous First Ladies, Ms Peng was already a household name before she became the President's wife.

A native of Yucheng County in Shandong, she is a renowned Chinese contemporary folk singer who joined the People's Liberation Army's musical troupe in 1980.

For more than three decades, she appeared regularly in front of millions of people on television in China's annual Spring Festival pageant. She is known for her bold-coloured gowns with well-fitted bodices and flouncy skirts.

A major-general in the Chinese army's musical troupe, Ms Peng has been married to President Xi, whom she met through friends in 1982, for 25years. The couple have a 21-year-old daughter, Mingze, who is studying at Harvard University in the United States.

Ms Tian Yimiao, Associate Professor at the Shanghai Conservatory of Music, told The New York Times last month: "Because of her performer's background and presence, I think she has become a diplomatic idol to many. People online are saying, 'Finally, we have a beautiful First Lady'."

PUBLICITY CAN BE TABOO

But Ms Li Yuan, managing editor of Chinese Wall Street Journal, reported last week that many Chinese retailers do not want to be seen capitalising on the First Lady.

She said in a video interview with Wall Street Journal's online portal: "Many are not used to this kind of attention and are wary of focusing too much on the ruling party."

China's largest e-commerce site, Taobao, has removed advertisements for clothes and accessories similar to those MsPeng has been seen wearing.

The country's most popular social media platform, Sina Weibo, has also blocked specific search terms which bloggers have been using to discuss her outfits.

Dr Li Minjiang, who teaches Chinese political economy and Chinese foreign policy at the S.Rajaratnam School Of International Studies at Nanyang Technological University, said Chinese cultural and political history also play a part.

"The government is very wary about making Ms Peng an idol because they don't want to be seen as projecting a decadent lifestyle by encouraging people to pursue or focus only on her fashion sense," he said.

He added that she also has to balance delicately her two very public roles - a politician's wife and renowned singer - or she may invite criticism from Chinese society.

"To a large segment of the population, it is considered taboo for a woman, especially a politician's wife, to create that sort of exposure or publicity for herself," he added.


FIVE DAYS IN THE LIFE OF CHINA'S FIRST LADY

MARCH 22

It is very easy to look boxy and puffy when dressing for the cold, but the First Lady was a picture of simple elegance when she arrived at Moscow's Vnukovo airport last month.

Dressed in black from head to toe, MsPeng wore a well-fitting overcoat that was tailored for her by Chinese designer Ma Ke. Her non-monogrammed structured bag, also designed by Ma, added a touch of class. We love the turquoise scarf, which softened the all-black ensemble and gave it a jolt of colour. This look was regal, chic and with a touch of ladylike appeal.

Style notes: Wearing head-to-toe black is always chic but it can be boring. Inject colour with some accessories and play with texture by wearing shoes in patent leather or carrying a bag made of textured or embossed leather.


MARCH 24

Arriving at the Julius Nyerere International Airport in Tanzania with her husband, she wore a classic white skirt suit designed by Ma Ke. The jacket was embroidered with peony and lily floral motifs, which softened the overall austere look. The peep-toe crocodile court shoes and structured handbag matched the outfit and finished the look nicely.

This ladylike look is reminiscent of the late style icon Eva Peron, Argentina's former First Lady.

Style notes: A boxy skirtsuit is just one hair bun away from looking like a 1980s office lady, so make sure it fits you well. Update the look with a patterned jacket, such as one with colourful floral prints, and team it with pumps and a structured doctor's bag for a youthful vibe that still looks professional.


MARCH 25

When she met Tanzania's First Lady Salma Kikwete at the latter's non-profit organisation benefiting women and children, MsPeng wore a floral shift dress and a spring overcoat in blue-grey. While the look was modern and Western, the overcoat featured a leaf button clasp similar to the frog buttons found on a traditional cheongsam. The upturned collar - a subtle symbol of power - contrasted perfectly with the overall feminine look.

Style notes: Dainty motifs, such as floral prints and lace, add interest to your look without making it look gaudy or old-fashioned.

Tone down busy prints or colours by throwing on a structured jacket in a similar or complementary colour


MARCH 26

When she accompanied her husband to the Brics (which stands for Brazil, Russia, India, China and South Africa) Summit Of Emerging Powers in Pretoria, South Africa, last month, MsPeng dazzled in a tone-on-tone silver ensemble.

The grey shift dress featured a conservative neckline and ended just above her knees.

What we like is the lightweight silk-cotton embroidered coat with touches of gold. Also designed by Ma Ke, the tapestry-inspired pattern was on-trend and the outfit looked modern and youthful.

A dark grey box clutch completed her look, which works for both day and night.

Style notes: Tone-on-tone dressing, especially when it is grey or silver, can make one look drab, so make sure you liven things up with touches of bright colours, such as gold or yellow. These will catch the light and give the ensemble a dose of daytime glamour.


APRIL 6

Last week, she attended a ceremony in Sanya, Hainan, to welcome Finnish President Sauli Niinisto.

This is probably our least favourite look from MsPeng's sartorial repertoire but it still adheres to her formula of conservative-but-chic dressing.

While the jacket fits nicely and the sleeve length is right, there is something very mumsy about this look. What we do like is the turquoise scarf lining the lapels from which she fashioned a bow. The look is ladylike but a tad boring.


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