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Mon, Oct 05, 2009
Urban, The Straits Times
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Batik revival
by Nore Farhain

You may have bought bolts of the stuff from Arab Street during an ethnic phase

WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR:

Good quality batik should be
waxed on both sides of the cloth.
The design should be equally bright
and clear on both sides.
Particularly fine pieces often have
elements worked with delicate lines.
If there is a large background area
of white or of one colour, this should
be clear, with no spills and smudges.

Or you like to wear sarongs and carry interesting bags made of it - batik, that is.

And of course, Asian heads of state often don batik shirts for group photo opportunities at political summits.

Batik is both an art and a craft, and uses an ancient wax-resistant technique to dye fabric, although today it is also mass-produced.

It is renowned for its distinctive South-east Asian patterns.

However, the humble piece of dyed cloth has been the centre of a recent tug of war over who came up with it originally.

Malaysia is said to have claimed that batik was part of its cultural heritage, something Indonesia took umbrage at.

However, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (Unesco) has recognised batik as part of what it calls Indonesia's 'Intangible Cultural Heritage'. The recognition will be made official today.

Malaysia, however, still claims the technique as its own.

What does it all mean to Singapore's batik lovers? Urban takes a close look at the ornate fabric and its ornate history.

LINKS TO MANY CULTURES

According to Singapore batik master Sarkasi Said, 71, it is difficult to pinpoint the origin of batik due to the widespread use of its technique, waxing.

He says: 'There is no statement to say where the batik technique comes from. It existed 3,000 to 4,000 years ago. Ancient civilisations like the Greeks and the Chinese Ming Dynasty used similar techniques to produce their cultural artifacts.'

However, he notes: 'You cannot separate batik and Indonesia because the batik created there depicts the socio-culture of the country, hence it holds more inherent value. Batik itself is a Javanese word.'

The word batik is derived from the word titik, which means droplets (of wax).

The laborious process of batik creation involves applying wax over the outline of a pattern and soaking it in dye baths to colour specific areas of the cloth.

The wax is then removed by heating and scraping it off or by applying hot water and sponging it off.

This waxing and dyeing process is repeated until the desired colour is achieved. The end product is a cloth with intricate design and multiple colours.

With the influx of immigrants from all over Asia to Indonesia in the last century, Indonesian batik contains influences from other cultures.

This is seen in motifs such as the mango shape from India, big flowers from Japan, clouds from China and also motifs from historical events or geographical locations. Motifs of sea creatures are common in batik made at seaside towns, for example.

Singapore batik painter Jalal Sarimon, 45, points to differences between Malaysian and Indonesian batik: The former has more floral, nature-centric, abstract or impressionist designs and its colours are bolder and brighter than its Indonesian counterpart, which has more traditionally symbolic designs.

Despite the more subdued designs of Indonesian batik, Said says that its quality is undisputed.

'There are no other places that can rival the detailed artistic skills involved in Indonesian batik,' he says.

In the 1970s, it was so prized it could be pawned for money, he adds.

The Indonesian government has put in great effort to promote the fabric, even enlisting fashion designers to help. Batik is now a staple in upscale malls and galleries. Many offices in Indonesia now observe 'Batik Fridays'.

Applications to copyright batik motifs have intensified. According to a recent report by The New York Times, about 300 designs have been copyrighted in Indonesian galleries in Jakarta.

However, Sarimon points out that Malaysia's batik industry is constantly updating and commercialising itself in terms of fashion.

Said notes: 'This controversy is good and healthy for the development of batik as it creates awareness of the art form.'

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