updated 20 Jan 2010, 16:16
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Wed, Jan 20, 2010
The Star/Asia News Network
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Enter the urban warriors

IT’S that time of year for a closet check and what better place to begin than with the season’s current trends?

The new Spring/Summer 2010 fashion season has officially begun – rather an unlikely time to be donning spring wear if you live in the West, but who are we to argue with the style powers-that-be?

And since when does fashion make sense anyway?


But even if you’re floundering in snow at the moment, this season, the fashion mantra is the higher the better – be it hemlines or heels. And get ready to square those shoulders to the max as you battle your way through the concrete jungle.

A look at what to expect for Spring was seen at the Balenciaga Spring/Summer collection, with designer Nicolas Ghesquière leading the urban warrior pack by sending out a tribe in leather jeans, hoodies and graphic prints. Definitely edgy with a twist.

If there is one thing that will define the look of the season, it’s sharp shoulders. It was already seen during Fall, but it’s back with a vengence ... and more definition.

What better way to work the shoulders than to bring on the epaulets, as Christopher Decarnin did at Balmain. Plenty of metal at the shoulders gave a military vibe to the jackets.

Talking about warriors, it’s not just the shoulders in the spotlight but also civilisations, modern or ancient.

These made a stamp on the runways, with influences in the form of accessories and prints, be it graphic or digital, old-school or contemporary.

Issey Miyake

Givenchy, for one, showed modern prints and gothic rock-chic with designer Riccardo Tisci setting the tone in streamlined, skinny looks with graphic prints.

We can’t possibly ignore Alexander McQueen this season, especially when he has given us more than the prints we’ve known.

The collection showed what the designer calls “engineered print”, and the glamazons he sent out at his show looked like hybrid human-aliens dressed in futuristic styles.

The clothes were short, perfectly-cut and featured engineered reptilian prints, all paired with the most insane shoes you’ve ever seen.

The sea-monster look didn’t detract from McQueen’s message, which, in a nutshell, was this – we come from the sea and we will return to the sea.

Some continuing trends we will see from last season include ruffles, draping and the one shoulder-look as toga dresses popped up in several collections.


No one does draping quite like Alber Elbaz of Lanvin, who is clearly the master of all the technicalities needed to ensure extraordinary cuts and the crucial way in which fabric falls.

Jumpsuits were also beautifully rendered in his collection, and this look will be another key trend for the season.

But if polished practicality is high on your list, keep your look fuss-free and minimal the way Pheobe Philo did with her debut collection for Celine, where she showcased perfect leather tees and military jackets.

The innerwear-as-outerwear look is also a continuing trend, but watch how you wear this in Spring, as you don’t want to be arrested for running around in your underclothes.

John Galliano started it all with the Christian Dior Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2009 collection, and since then, everyone seems to have followed suit.

For Spring, Dior continues the appeal of innerwear with corsets and lingerie-styled dresses. This look also featured strongly in the Marc Jacobs collection.

Two other trends that will also be prominent this season are trenchcoats and leather (previously a Fall staple but an emerging trend for Spring), and Dior combined both in a gorgeous, short leather trench.

Sheer fabrics, either nude or coloured, were prevalent in almost all the collections this season so it looks like the transparent look is here to stay for a while.

As for colour palettes, nude is the way to go as there’s no better way to show off detailing, drapes and wrapping. Another option is stark white – very clean, very modern, very now.

But don’t discount colour either, which is always a Spring staple, or black, because since when did that ever go out of style?

Something else to look out for is a little bit of shimmer or plenty of shine. It doesn’t matter if it’s a smattering or full-on display of sparklies because it’s okay to dazzle in the daytime.

And here’s the clincher – whatever your preferred look this season, do note that it is expected to be a body-conscious one with no room for those extra Christmas pounds. So suck it all in, keep those shoulders sharp, hemlines high and enjoy.

The future is now.

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