NEW YORK: Whatever colour dominates wardrobes this year, the mood will be dark when Fashion Week kicks off in New York this Friday.

Almost all invitations to catwalk shows are in black envelopes, symbolic of the downturn hitting one of the world’s most extravagant industries.

The belt tightening in the fashion industry follows a relentless slew of shop and chain closures – luxury and mass retail – as consumers desert the high street and the economy continues its downward spiral.

Even good news usually comes sandwiched in bad.

Just after Fortunoff jewellers closed, Estee Lauder laid off 2,000 people and Macy’s sacked 7,000, French luxury group LVMH announced a 3 per cent rise in fourth-quarter sales and plans to open 25 new stores this year.

Giorgio Armani bucked the deep gloom by opening a four-storey flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue, a concept store that will house luxury collections and Armani Jeans.

While big-time consumption is out of fashion, more than 70 designers will be at Fashion Week, compared to last year’s 80.

These will include the usual stars such as Ralph Lauren, Diane von Furstenberg and Calvin Klein, as well as newcomers such as Georges Chakra.

However, some designers are cutting costs by holding joint shows. Others are showing 25 to 30 outfits, compared to 30 to 40 in other years.

Recognising the city’s deep links with the fashion industry, Mayor Michael Bloomberg has announced a five-year contract starting next year for staging Fashion Week in Lincoln Center – 25 per cent bigger than the current venue in Bryant Park, near Times Square.

“The fashion industry is a vital part of our city’s economy, providing more than 175,000 jobs and generating billions of dollars in wages for New Yorkers annually,” Mr Bloomberg said.

– AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

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